PLANNING AN EXPEDITION. UNDERSTAND THE ALPINE GRADING SYSTEM
Before planning any expedition, it is essential to understand the difficulty of the trek you will encounter. This knowledge helps in preparing both physically and mentally, allowing you to anticipate challenges and make informed decisions regarding necessary skills and equipment. Various alpine grading systems exist worldwide, each designed to assess the overall difficulty of a route, including technical requirements, exposure, altitude, and objective hazards.
Alpine grading systems differ from rock climbing grading systems, which focus primarily on the difficulty of individual climbing moves. Rock climbing grades, such as 5a or 6a, are commonly used in sport and traditional rock climbing to measure the technical difficulty of a single section or pitch. In contrast, alpine grades evaluate the overall seriousness of a route, taking into account factors like terrain type, weather conditions, and the risks associated with high-altitude environments. Understanding these distinctions is crucial for choosing the right route based on your experience and skill level.
The French Alpine Grading System (F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED) evaluates the overall difficulty of an alpine climb, considering factors like technical difficulty, exposure, terrain type (rock, snow, ice), and altitude
- F (Facile – Easy)
Characteristics:
- Suitable for beginners with basic mountaineering skills.
- Mostly involves trekking with some easy snow or glacier travel.
- Minimal technical difficulty, but requires proper equipment like crampons and an ice axe.
- Mostly trekking with minor scrambling
- Gentle snow slopes, basic glacier travel
- Low technical difficulty, but altitude is a factor
Examples:
Mera Peak (6,476m, Nepal) – A high-altitude trekking peak with basic crampon and ice axe use.
Stok Kangri (6,153m, India) – A non-technical but high-altitude trek with glacier sections.
- PD (Peu Difficile – Slightly Difficult)
Characteristics:
- Includes steeper snow slopes and occasional scrambling on rocky terrain.
- Basic rope work might be needed for safety
- Some crevasses and rope work required
- Occasional scrambling, may require basic ice axe skills
Examples:
Island Peak (6,189m, Nepal) – Some steep ice sections and fixed ropes, but mainly a trekking peak.
Elbrus (5,642m, Russia) – Requires glacier travel and basic crampon use.
Chimborazo (6,263m, Ecuador) – Glacier climb with crevasses and risk of rockfall.
- AD (Assez Difficile – Fairly Difficult)
Characteristics:
- Mixed terrain (rock, snow, and ice)
- Steeper sections (40-50° slopes)
- Roped climbing needed in some parts
- More technical, with steep snow slopes, mixed rock and ice climbing, and exposed ridges.
- Requires solid mountaineering skills, rope work, and good fitness.
Examples:
Mont Blanc (4,810m, France) via Trois Monts Route – Includes glacier travel and crevasses.
Ama Dablam (6,812m, Nepal, lower sections) – Steep climbing with some technical rock/ice.
Khan Tengri (7,010m, Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan) – Mixed climbing with heavy crevasse navigation.
- D (Difficile – Difficult)
Characteristics:
- Steeper ice and rock climbing with sustained exposure.
- Requires experience in alpine climbing, rope techniques, and handling extreme weather conditions
- Long and exposed sections
- Technical rock and ice climbing (50-60° slopes)
- High risk of avalanches, icefall, or extreme altitude effects
Examples:
Denali (6,190m, Alaska) via West Buttress – Cold temperatures, altitude, and crevasse risk.
Matterhorn (4,478m, Switzerland) via Hörnli Ridge – Steep rock climbing with exposed ridges.
Lhotse (8,516m, Nepal, standard route) – High-altitude endurance climb with 60° ice walls.
- TD (Très Difficile – Very Difficult)
Characteristics:
- Demands high-level climbing skills, often with technical ice and rock pitches.
- Prolonged exposure and remote locations make it highly challenging.
- Highly technical with sustained climbing (rock/ice)
- Exposed ridges, 60-70° ice slopes
- Complex rope work and risk management
Examples:
Everest (8,848m, Nepal) via North Ridge – Technical rock sections and extreme altitude.
K2 (8,611m, Pakistan, standard Abruzzi Route) – Steep ice, technical climbing, high objective dangers.
Dhaulagiri (8,167m, Nepal) – Steep ridges, avalanches, and exposed terrain.
- ED (Extrêmement Difficile – Extremely Difficult)
Characteristics:
- Reserved for elite climbers.
- Involves serious technical climbing on rock, ice, or mixed terrain.
- Requires expert mountaineering skills, endurance, and experience in high-risk conditions
- Extremely technical terrain with sustained difficulty
- Steep rock/ice climbing (70°+), complex logistics
- High avalanche and rockfall risk
Examples:
K2 (8,611m, Pakistan) via West Face – Purely technical, mixed rock, ice, and high risk.
Annapurna I (8,091m, Nepal) – High avalanche danger, technical climbing.
Nanga Parbat (8,126m, Pakistan) via Rupal Face – One of the hardest climbs due to altitude and exposure.
Khafiz Al Kicok
ZEROTO8000